Tereza Kuldova

Researcher - History
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Visiting address Niels Henrik Abels vei 36 Niels Treschows hus 0851 OSLO
Postal address Postboks 1008 Blindern 0315 OSLO

Academic Interests

Previous/Concluded Research

Contemporary Indian fashion industry (2009-2014)

  • Relations of production, labour relations, questions of work and anti-work ethic in postcolonial environments
  • Relations between fashion design, craft and art and critical approaches to contemporary design
  • Critical approaches to marketing, branding, and advertising of fashion, especially developing theories of ambient governance and ambient atmospheres, experience design, sensory branding
  • Anthropological approaches to consumption, cultural specificity and consumption, gendered consumption
  • Investigation of the transnational business elites and patterns of elitist consumption, especially consumption of luxury, art and antiques
  • Main publication: monograph Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique, London: Bloomsbury (2016)

Current Research

HERA funded project ‘Enterprise of Culture: International Structures and Connections in the Fashion Industry since 1945’

  • Current post-doctoral fellowship is part of this larger project on international business structures and their history in the fashion industry
  • Currently working on diverse case studies of established fashion businesses in the West (esp. Austria and Norway), which produce and manufacture in India, looking at their marketing strategies and historical shifts and developments; the outcomes of this research will be published in my second monograph entitled Luxury and Vulgarity (also to come out with Bloomsbury, London, in 2018)

Critical Luxury Studies (2014-15)

  • Affiliated as external researcher with the ‘Critical Luxury Studies’ research group at the Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton (contributed to several workshops and an upcoming article in a special issue ‘On Luxury’ of the journal Cultural Politics (Duke University Press), entitled Fatalist Luxuries: Of Inequality, Wasting and Anti-Work Ethic in India
  • The aforementioned monograph is to come out in a new book series with Bloomsbury edited by John Armitage and entitled Luxury and …

Intellectual Property Rights in Fashion and Design (2014-2016)

  • International IPR regimes in relation to fashion and design, the cultural logic of IPR law
  • Editor of special issue of the Journal of Design History (Oxford) entitled ‘Interrogating Intellectual Property Rights’ (scheduled for autumn 2016)

Urban Utopias: Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal South Asia (2015-16)

  • Currently editing a volume of the aforementioned title and preparing a conference in March 2016 on the topic, the volume will be published with Palgrave MacMillan and brings together leading scholars on South Asia

Research Project: ‘Gangs, Brands and Intellectual Property Rights: A Comparative Study of the Evolution of the Transnational Business Organization of Outlaw Bikers and Luxury Brands through the Lens of their Legal Battles against Piracy’ (2015-2016)

  • Research project in collaboration with University of California, Berkeley of which I am principle investigator, the research project was awarded a Peder Sather Grant (25000USD) from UC Berkeley
  • Core questions relate to the role of IPR protection in both legal and illegal businesses and the cultural logic of branding and certification in relation to the trademark law
  • Planned article: Hells Angels Motorcycle Corporation in the Fashion Business: Interrogating the Fetishism of the Trademark Law (Journal of Design History, autumn 2016)
  • Currently working on a monograph based on this research (planned for 2019), entitled Law and Fetishism: On the Cultural Logic of Brands

Current Research Project:

Gangs, Brands and Intellectual Property Rights: Interdisciplinary Comparative Study of Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs and Luxury Brands

In 2010, Hells Angels Motorcycle Club, the most famous and most powerful outlaw motorcycle club in the world, operating in more than fifty countries across the world, sued Alexander McQueen, the iconic fashion designer, for trademark infringement. This case brought to light the Hells Angels obsession with protection of their intellectual property, an obsession that has since the 70s slowly spread across the world of outlaw motorcycle clubs at large. The fact that the most notorious and self-proclaimed outlaws take recourse to the very law they attempt to disregard raises questions about the nature of the encounters across the legal and illegal as well as of the strategic use of legal protection afforded by, for instance, the trademark law. The project aims at understanding the ways in which outlaw motorcycle clubs use the law and legal businesses to further their interests and acquire power across the spaces of legality and illegality. The project will specifically focus on outlaw motorcycle clubs in central Europe (Austria, Czech republic and parts of Germany) and will utilize ethnographic and historical research, combined with media and legal analysis.

For more information about my interests, feel free to visit my website.

Background

Personal academic website: http://www.tereza-kuldova.com

EDUCATION

2013            PhD in social anthropology, Faculty of Social Sciences, Department of Social Anthropology, University of Oslo, Supervisors: Øivind Fuglerud and Thomas Hylland Eriksen

2009            Master degree in social anthropology, Faculty of Social Sciences, Department of Social Anthropology, University of Oslo

CURRENT POSITION

2016 - 2019 Researcher, Norwegian Research Council project (2016-2018, Visiting Senior Researcher, Universitz of Vienna)

2014 – 2016 Post-doctoral Fellow, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Archaeology, Conservation and History, University of Oslo, Norway, HERA funded project: ‘Enterprise of Culture: International Structures and   Connections in the Fashion Industry since 1945’ (EOC)

PREVIOUS POSITIONS

2013 – 2014 Senior Researcher and Curator, Museum of Cultural History, Department of Ethnography, University of Oslo, Norway

2009 – 2013 PhD Fellow, Museum of Cultural History, Department of Ethnography, University of Oslo, Norway

2011 – 2012 Research assistant, HERA funded project – Creativity and Innovation in a World of Movement (CIM)

 

VISITING FELLOWSHIPS            

2015             Peder Sather Grant, Institute for the Study of Societal Issues, University of California, Berkeley, USA (1 month)

2011             Visiting research fellow at School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS), University of London, UK (4 months)

2011             Visiting research fellow at Jawaharlal Nehru University, New Delhi, India (6 months)

 

ETHNOGRAPHIC FIELDWORKS

2015 Vienna, Austria and Oslo, Norway (Peder Sather Grant), Hells Angels and other outlaw motorcycle clubs

2008 – 2013 Multiple ethnographic fieldworks in India (New Delhi, Lucknow, Mumbai), 2,5 years of field research experience, Hindu-Muslim relations, Indian fashion industry

SELECTED PUBLICATIONS (recent and forthcoming)

(2016) Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique, London: Bloomsbury (26th March 2016), research monograph

(2016) ‘Fatalist Luxuries: Of Inequality, Wasting and Anti-Work Ethic in India’, Cultural Politics, (Duke University Press), February 2016, special issue The Spirit of Luxury ed. John Armitage

(2016) ‘Directing Passions in New Delhi’s Fashion World: On the Power of Ritual and Illusions without Owners’, Thesis Eleven, OnlineFirst February 2016

(2015) ‘Designing Hypermuscular Neoaristocracy: Of Kings, Gangsters and Muscles in Indian Cinema, Fashion and Politics’, Film, Fashion and Consumption, 3(2): 149-156.

PROFESSIONAL MEMBERSHIPS

EASA (European Association of Social Anthropologists, ASA (Association of Social Anthropologists of the UK and Commonwealth), The Finnish Anthropological Society

GRANTS AWARDED

Norwegian Research Council - 250716

Peder Sather Grant (UC Berkeley) for exploratory research project Gangs, Brands and Intellectual Property Rights (25000USD) 

Ingmund Kirkerud’s Legat (grant – 3500 EUR), ethnographic filmmaking

Collaboration

HERA-project Creativity and Innovation in a World of Movement with individual project Designing Elites: Fashion and Value in Urban North India

 

Tags: India, Material culture, Social anthropology, Hierarchy, Fashion, Craft, Social change, Commodification, Value, Aesthetic economy, Gangs, Organized crime, Business anthropology, Anthropology of law, Intellectual Property Rights, Counterfeiting, White Collar Crime

Publications

  • Kuldova, Tereza (2018). Designing for 'Zippies' and the Madness of Bhootsavaar: On Commercially Inflected Artistic Nationalism and Branded 'Subcultures', In Lipi Begum; Rohit K. Dasgupta & Reina Lewis (ed.),  Styling South Asian Youth Cultures: Fashion, Media & Society.  I.B. Tauris.  ISBN 9781784539177.  chapter 6.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2018). Fetishism and the Problem of Disavowal. Qualitative Market Research.  ISSN 1352-2752.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2018). The 'ethical sell' in the Indian luxury fashion business, In Veronique Pouillard & Regina Lee Blaszczyk (ed.),  European fashion: The creation of a global industry.  Manchester University Press.  ISBN 978-1-5261-2210-0.  11.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Forcing ‘Good’ and the Legitimization of Informal Power: Philanthrocapitalism and Artistic Nationalism among the Indian Business Elites. Internationales Asienforum.  ISSN 0020-9449.  48(1-2), s 55- 75
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Guarded Luxotopias and Expulsions in New Delhi: Aesthetics and Ideology of Outer and Inner Spaces of an Urban Utopia, In Tereza Kuldova & Mathew Akkanad Varghese (ed.),  Urban Utopias: Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal South Asia.  Palgrave Macmillan.  ISBN 978-3-319-47622-3.  Chapter 3.  s 37 - 52
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). On fashion and illusions: Designing interpassive Indianness for India’s rich, In Marco Pedroni & Emanuela Mora (ed.),  Fashion Tales: Feeding the Imaginary.  Peter Lang Publishing Group.  ISBN 9783034327893.  12.  s 273 - 290
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). The Sublime Splendor of Intimidation: Outlaw Biker Aesthetics of Power. Visual Anthropology.  ISSN 0894-9468.  30(5), s 379- 402 . doi: 10.1080/08949468.2017.1371545 Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Traversing Trade Fairs and Fashion Weeks: On Dependence and Disavowal in the Indian Fashion Industry, In Hege Høyer Leivestad & Hege Nyqvist (ed.),  Ethnographies of Conferences and Trade Fairs: Shaping Industries, Creating Professionals.  Palgrave Macmillan.  ISBN 978-3-319-53096-3.  8.  s 147 - 169
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). When Elites and Outlaws Do Philanthropy: On the Limits of Private Vices for Public Benefit. Trends in Organized Crime.  ISSN 1084-4791. . doi: 10.1007/s12117-017-9323-6 Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Varghese, Mathew Akkanad (2017). Introduction: Urban Utopias - Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal India and Sri Lanka, In Tereza Kuldova & Mathew Akkanad Varghese (ed.),  Urban Utopias: Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal South Asia.  Palgrave Macmillan.  ISBN 978-3-319-47622-3.  Chapter 1.
  • Pouillard, Veronique & Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Interrogating Intellectual Property Rights in Post-war Fashion and Design. Journal of Design History.  ISSN 0952-4649. . doi: https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/epx014
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Directing passions in New Delhi's world of fashion: on the power of ritual and illusions without owners. Thesis Eleven.  ISSN 0725-5136.  133(1), s 96- 113 . doi: 10.1177/0725513616633250 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Fatalist luxuries: Of inequality, wasting, and the antiwork ethic in India. Cultural Politics.  ISSN 1743-2197.  12(1), s 110- 129 . doi: 10.1215/17432197-3436415 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Heads against Hands and Hierarchies of Creativity, In  Creativity in Transition: Politics and Aesthetics of Cultural Production Across the Globe.  Berghahn Books.  ISBN 978-1-78533-181-7.  Chapter 2.  s 61 - 85
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Hells Angels™ Motorcycle Corporation in Fashion Business: Interrogating the Fetishism of the Trademark Law. Journal of Design History.  ISSN 0952-4649.  s 1- 19 . doi: 10.1093/jdh/epw041 Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Indian 'Haute Couture': Ornamentalism and the Aesthetic Economy of Neo-Imperial Atmospheres. Culturologia: The Journal of Culture.  ISSN 1805-2886.  2(2), s 1- 9 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Utopi, I: Knut Stene-Johansen; Christian Refsum & Johan Henrik Schimanski (red.),  Å leve sammen. Roland Barthes, individet og fellesskapet.  Spartacus.  ISBN 978-82-304-01781.  U.  s 384 - 402
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). An Indian Cocktail of Value/s and Desire: On the ‘Artification’ of Whisky and Fashion, In Øivind Fuglerud & Leon Wainwright (ed.),  OBJECTS AND IMAGINATION Perspectives on Materialization and Meaning.  Berghahn Books.  ISBN 978-1-78238-568-4.  11.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Bugge, Remy (2015). Smykkedesign i India og Norge: maksimalisme, minimalisme og illusjoner om den andre, I: Marianne Vedeler & Ingunn Marit Røstad (red.),  Smykker. Personlig pynt i kulturhistorisk lys.  Museumsforlaget AS.  ISBN 9788283050226.  kapittel 4.  s 91 - 112 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Designing Hypermuscular Neo-Aristocracy: Of Kings, Gangsters and Muscles in Indian Cinema, Fashion and Politics. Film Fashion and Consumption.  ISSN 2044-2823.  3(2), s 149- 156 . doi: 10.1386/ffc.3.2.149_1
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Designing an Illusion of India's Future Superpowerdom. Unfamiliar: An Anthropological Journal.  ISSN 2050-778X.  4(1), s 15- 22 . doi: 10.2218/unfamiliar.v4i1.1097 Full text in Research Archive.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Fashion Exhibition as a Critique of Museum Exhibitions: The Case of 'Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism'. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty.  ISSN 2040-4417.  5(2), s 313- 336
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). Laughing at Luxury, Mocking Fashion Designers, In Tereza Kuldova (ed.),  Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism.  Akademika forlag.  ISBN 978-82-321-0319-5.  10..  s 167 - 194
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). 'The Maharaja Style: Royal Chic and Double Vision, In Tereza Kuldova (ed.),  Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism.  Akademika forlag.  ISBN 978-82-321-0319-5.  4..  s 51 - 72
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Fashionable Erotic Masquerades: Of brides, gods and vamps in India. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty.  ISSN 2040-4417.  3(1&2), s 69- 86
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Kalland, Arne (2011). Hvalfart fra Øygarden til Praha: Et hvalskjeletts biografi. Havstrilen.  ISSN 1502-9107.  11, s 16- 27
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). Acting Out Class: On mimicking, mocking, Bollywood stars and the urban Indian male. Suomen Antropologi.  ISSN 0355-3930.  35(3)
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Varghese, Mathew Akkanad (ed.) (2017). Urban Utopias: Excess and Expulsion in Neoliberal South Asia. Palgrave Macmillan.  ISBN 978-3-319-47622-3.  240 s.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Luxury Indian Fashion: A Social Critique. Bloomsbury Academic.  ISBN 9781474220941.  224 s.
  • Kuldova, Tereza; Meyer, Birgit & Svasek, Maruska (2016). Creativity in Transition: Politics and Aesthetics of Cultural Production Across the Globe. Berghahn Books.  ISBN 978-1-78533-181-7.  340 s. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (ed.) (2013). Fashion India: Spectacular Capitalism. Akademika forlag.  ISBN 978-82-321-0319-5.  235 s.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Absolute Outlaw (Art Photography Exhibition).
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Artists' Waste, Wasted Artists. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Book Review: The Rise of the Right by Simon Winlow, Steve Hall and James Treadwell. Journal of Extreme Anthropology.  ISSN 2535-3241. . doi: http://dx.doi.org/10.5617/jea.4484
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Doing Good on the Fringe: On the Uses of Charity Among Outlaw Bikers.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Excerpts from 'Dark Matter: The History of Shit' by Florian Werner, transl. Tereza Kuldova.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Feminine Advantage: Doing Ethnography of Outlaws.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Having One's Cake and Eating It Too: Hells Angels Between Consumer Culture and the Sacred. Rokko's Adventures.  ISSN 1994-344X.  (19), s 52- 57
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Loss of Sovereignty and Social Abjection: On Masculinity and Melancholic Objects of Political Desire.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). The Sublime Power of Intimidation: Riding Behind Outlaw Bikers. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). The Sublime Splendor of Intimidation: Outlaw Biker Aesthetics of Power (Lecture).
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). Weakness, Strength and the Business of Protection: How (the discourse of) the Weakening State Contributes to the Growth of Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs across Europe. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). What Meets the Eye: Lessons in Visual Anthropology (Invited Guest Series of Six Lectures: 1. Visual Anthropology: From Objects to Methods 2. Museums and Visual Anthropology 3. Visual Anthropology of Fashion and Design 4. Photography, Film and Countercultures 5. Advertising, Branding and the Anthropologist in the Neoliberal 6. Visual Methods in the Field: From Documentation to Representation).
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2017). When Elites and Outlaws Do Philanthropy: On the Limits of Private Vices for Public Benefit.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Petrilli, Enrico (2017, 23. oktober). Antropologia Estrema: Lusso, bikers e merda: conversazione con Tereza Kuldova dell’Extreme Anthropology Research Network. [Internett].  NERO.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Røsæg, Håvard (2017, 15. februar). Helvetes filantroper.  Universitas.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Doing Anthropology of Outlaw Bikers: Representing Ambiguous and Controversial Groups.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Philanthrocapitalism Across Legal and Illegal Markets: From Indian Business Elites to the Hells Angels Motorcycle Corporation. Show summary
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Protecting Trademarks and Culture - Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs in between Counterculture and Popular Culture.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Protecting Trademarks and Culture: Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs in Between Subculture and Popular Culture.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). The Brotherhoods' Sacred Jackets: Decoding the Fashions of Transnational Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2016). Transnational Outlaw Motorcycle Clubs and the Ideas of the West.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Pileberg, Silje (2016, 22. august). MC-klubber verner om verdifulle symboler. [Internett].  https://www.hf.uio.no/iakh/forskning/aktuelt/aktuelle-saker/.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Zechmeister, Petra (2016, 10. september). The Social Anthropologist: Interview with Tereza Kuldova. [Internett].  The C/O Vienna Magazine.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Charitable Non-Love of ‘Ethical’ Fashion: Philanthrocapitalism and the Reproduction of Poverty in the Indian Fashion Industry.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Forcing the ‘Good’ rather than ‘Force of Good’: Interrogating the Convergence between Indian Fashion, Artistic Nationalism and Transnational Philanthrocapitalism.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Fragments of/for a Domestic Utopia: Ethnographic Notes on How Indian Royal Descendants Live Together with Servants.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Outlaws in fashion business: Hells Angels vs. Alexander McQueen and other copyright battles over Gang Insignia.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). The Cult of Luxury and its Vulgarities: On the Irresistible Power of the Low.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Theorizing Opulent Theatrical Fashion-cum-Art Shows in India On Artistic Nationalism, Neo-feudal Ornamentalism, and Philanthrocapitalism.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2015). Thinking through Luxury (in Anthropology): On the Cultural Politics of Luxury, Inequality and Anti-Work Ethic in India.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Affective and aesthetic atmospheres as ideological play-spheres: the making of the heroic Indian entrepreneur-philanthropists in design studios.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Asiatiske Luksusmarkeder: Fornuft og lidenskap.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Designing Elite Indian Masculinities: Fashion, Whisky and Cosmopolitan Neo-Royalty.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Fashion as Ambient Governance: Guerilla Marketing and Experience Design in New Delhi.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Postsocialist Imperialism and its Others. Cultural Studies.  ISSN 0950-2386.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2014). Stairway to Heaven (part of the exhibition 'For the Love of Freedom').
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). Designing Elites: Fashion and Prestige in Urban North India. Series of Dissertations submitted to the Faculty of Social Sciences, University of Oslo. 421.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). Designing Interpassive Indianness: Intimate Encounters with Nation at a Distance.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2013). Fashion India Utstilling ved Kulturhistorisk Museum.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Artification and Montage: Indian Fashion, Art and Whisky.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Embroidered Seduction, Embroidered Modesty: On Luxury Garments and Femininity in Contemporary India.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Hijacking Creativity, Denying Imagination: Unraveling the Mystery of Value Extraction in Indian Fashion.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2012). Laughing at Luxury and Mocking Designers: Poor Craftswoman's Take on High Fashion.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2011). 'Claiming and Denying Creativity: The Battlefield that is the Creation of Indian Embroidered Garment’.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). A COMMODITY AS A WINDOW INTO COMPLEXITY: THE CHIKAN EMBROIDERY OF INDIA AND THE INTERTWINED SOCIAL LIFE OF THINGS AND PEOPLE.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). CONSTRUCTING THE ‘FIELD’ ACROSS TIME AND SPACE: DEALING WITH MULTIPLE CONTEXTS AND MULTIPLE TEMPORALITIES.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). MANAGING CLOTHES, EXPRESSING VALUES: THE INDIAN MIDDLE-CLASS AND THE GAME OF ALIGNING VALUES WITH CLOTHES.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). Om nordmenn, et universitet og et øltelt. Revue Prostor.  ISSN 0862-7045.  87/88, s 213- 218
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2010). Things, Mimesis, Mirror Neurons, Bollywood Stars and the Brand-Spanking New Indian Middle Class. Antropress.  (3), s 14- 16
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2009). Networks that Make a Difference: The Production of Social Cohesion in Lucknow, North India.
  • Kuldova, Tereza (2009). Ties that Make a Difference: Investigating Peace. Betwixt & Between.  ISSN 1504-2618.
  • Kuldova, Tereza & Jakoubek, Marek (2007). Antropologie multikulturních společností: Rozumět identitě.
Published Aug. 12, 2014 11:01 AM - Last modified Nov. 29, 2017 11:39 AM

Projects

No ongoing projects