Interrogating intellectual property rights: fashion and design

This conference will examine the question of fashion and design’s intellectual property rights in the framework of the post-war period. Open conference, requires registration.

Join us in this open conference to examine fashion and design’s intellectual property rights.

Registration, by June 9

When fashion and design reached the masses during the post-war period, becoming affordable to expanding categories of consumers in the Western world, art and commerce were contractually brought together. These developments raised pressing questions that are still with us today:

  • How to provide incentives for creativity in business, how to monetize intangible property and how to protect it from infringement and enforce intellectual property rights?
  • What counts as original or as an innovation and to what degree should and can these be protected in face of cheap copies and knock-offs flooding the markets at an unprecedented speed?
  • Who has the definition power and the leverage in the form of market access and higher levels of protection in foreign markets?

The conference will bring together academics, fashion industry practitioners, professionals, students, archivists, museum curators, and the general public.


(Please note this programme is subject to change.)

08.30-09.00: Registration and refreshments

09.00-10.30: Session one

Welcome to the conference and The Enterprise of Culture: Veronique Pouillard & Tereza Kuldova (University of Oslo & The Enterprise of Culture)

  • Fashioning property: understandings of intellectual property in fashion and design. Barbara Townley (University of St Andrews and The Enterprise of Culture).
  • Why post-war American businesses embraced corporate identity design. Carma Gorman (The University of Texas, Austin).
  • Fashion and intellectual property: creator, curator, consumer — behind the scenes at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Roxanne Peters (Victoria & Albert Museum).

10.30 -11.00: Coffee and fruit break

11.00-12.00: Session two.

Chair: Kjetil Fallan (University of Oslo)

  • The PH Lamp: an intellectual property biography of a Danish design icon. Stina Teilmann-Lock (University of Southern Denmark)
  • To protect or not protect? That was the question. Swedish intellectual property law and fashion in a historical and comparative perspective Marianne Dhalen (University of Uppsala).

12.00-13.00: Lunch

13.00-14.30 Session three
Chair: Regina Lee Blaszczyk (University of Leeds and The Enterprise of Culture)

  • Fashion, Intellectual Property and Culture in the Creative Economy. Tania Phipps-Rufus (University of Bristol)
  • New-York Paris fashion nexus and the criminalization of fashion piracy: The Milton affair, 1955-1962. Veronique Pouillard-Maliks (University of Oslo and The Enterprise of Culture)
  • Fashioning brands: Bourdieu, Biba and beyond, c. 1960-80. Alan McKinlay (Newcastle University) on behalf of The Enterprise of Culture teams at Newcastle University and Heriot-Watt University

14.30- 15.00: Coffee break

15.00-16.30: Session four

  • Première Vision (Paris) vs. Interstoff (Frankfurt) from a copyrights perspective (1970 – 2010). Ben Wubs and Thierry Maillet (Erasmus University Rotterdam and The Enterprise of Culture)
  • New battle for old names: empowering ‘sleeping beauties’ through intellectual property rights. Madeleine Vionnet, Jean Patou, and Elsa Schiaparelli (1980s-2010s). Johanna Zanon (University of Oslo)
  • Outlaws in fashion business: Hells Angels vs. Alexander McQueen and other copyright battles over Gang Insignia. Tereza Kuldova (University of Oslo and The Enterprise of Culture)

16.30-17.00: Coffee and snack break

17.00 Roundtable discussion

  • Kristine Bruland (University of Oslo)
  • Regina Lee Blaszczyk (University of Leeds and The Enterprise of Culture)
  • Luca Molà (European University Institute, Florence)
  • Klaus Nathaus (University of Oslo)
  • Kjetil Fallan (University of Oslo)
Published June 2, 2015 3:28 PM - Last modified Nov. 29, 2017 11:41 AM